DPF Cleaner
Also known as soot filter cleaner
Alkaline concentrate that dissolves soot and baked-on soot deposits. Used on blocked diesel particulate filters, catalytic converters and SCR units, and on parts and surfaces where soot has burned itself in.
Ask our advisers for usage advice that fits your situation.
Five short questions, done in two minutes. You see the pack size and price that fit you straight away.
Watch the video12 secondsBelow is the method for a filter that has been taken off the vehicle and goes into a heated bath or flushing unit. Loose parts with soot deposits follow the same route: submerge, let it work, rinse. Our adviser sets the dilution and the soak time against the kind of work that comes through your door.
- 1. Take the filter off and blow it out dry
Blow the filter out dry with compressed air first, against the direction of flow. The loose soot that comes out here is soot the cleaner no longer has to dissolve. - 2. Mix the cleaner
Mix the concentrate with water at 1:10 for normal fouling, up to 1:5 for filters that were driven far too long. Work at 60 to 70 degrees. Cold water costs you a lot more time. - 3. Soak and circulate
Leave the filter in the bath for 30 to 60 minutes and keep the liquid moving. For heavy fouling, leave it in longer rather than pushing the dosage up. - 4. Rinse and dry
Rinse through with clean water until the rinse water stays clear, this time with the direction of flow. Then dry it out completely with warm air before the filter goes back on the vehicle.
- Product form
- Liquid concentrate, water-based
- Colour
- Fluorescent yellow
- Character
- Alkaline
- Dilution
- 1:10 to 1:5Heavier fouling: leave it in longer instead of dosing higher.
- Working temperature
- 60 to 70 °CWorks cold as well, just slower.
- Soak time
- 30 to 60 minutes
- Suitable for
- Ceramic and metal filter elements, catalytic converters, SCR units and parts with soot deposits
- Pack sizes
- 1, 5, 10, 20, 200 and 1000 litres
- Private label
- Available from a fixed annual volume
Available in a range of container sizes
- Free sample tested on your own soiling, no cost and no obligation
- Dutch manufacturer we produce it ourselves and adjust the formulation
- Technical and safety data sheet sent with the sample
- Your own label possible from a fixed annual volume
A regeneration burns off the soot. The ash stays where it is.
A particulate filter catches two things: soot and ash. Soot burns off during regeneration and disappears. Ash does not. Ash is what is left of oil additives and engine wear, and it builds up until the channels are packed solid.
From that point on no regeneration helps any more. Back pressure climbs, power drops, the fault code comes back and the vehicle goes into limp mode. The mechanic is looking at a filter that the software says it has just regenerated, and it is still blocked.
The standard answer is to replace it. That is also the most expensive answer: a new filter for a van or a truck easily costs more than cleaning ten filters. And the ceramic element itself is usually still fine.
Vans and trucks
The biggest group by far. Short runs and city work mean regenerations that never finish, so ash builds up fast.
Agriculture and earthmoving
Machines that idle for hours or work at low revs block up quickest, and when they fail they stop the job.
Catalytic converters and SCR
The same method works on catalytic converters and on SCR units with urea deposits.
Not sure whether this is the right product?
Answer six short questions and our specialist will look at it with you. Free of charge, and you commit to nothing.
In the workshop
The product that goes into the cleaning machine
Twelve seconds from a workshop that cleans particulate filters every day: which concentrate goes in, and what that does to the cycle time.
The calculation
Clean it or replace it
The ceramic element outlives the ash that collects inside it. That is why replacing is almost always the more expensive of the two routes.
Cleaning with this product
- The filter stays with the vehicle, only the soot and the ash come out
- Done within half a day, rinsing and drying included
- Cost per filter stays a fraction of a new one
- You can do it yourself, in your own bath or flushing unit
Replacing the filter
- Order a new filter and wait and see when it turns up
- The vehicle stands still for as long as the delivery takes
- A perfectly good ceramic element goes in the skip
- Under the same driving conditions the new filter blocks up just as fast
Rather see first whether it works?
We send a free sample with dosing advice for your type of soiling.
Method
How you use it
Below is the method for a filter that has been taken off the vehicle and goes into a heated bath or flushing unit. Loose parts with soot deposits follow the same route: submerge, let it work, rinse. Our adviser sets the dilution and the soak time against the kind of work that comes through your door.
1. Take the filter off and blow it out dry
Blow the filter out dry with compressed air first, against the direction of flow. The loose soot that comes out here is soot the cleaner no longer has to dissolve.
2. Mix the cleaner
Mix the concentrate with water at 1:10 for normal fouling, up to 1:5 for filters that were driven far too long. Work at 60 to 70 degrees. Cold water costs you a lot more time.
3. Soak and circulate
Leave the filter in the bath for 30 to 60 minutes and keep the liquid moving. For heavy fouling, leave it in longer rather than pushing the dosage up.
4. Rinse and dry
Rinse through with clean water until the rinse water stays clear, this time with the direction of flow. Then dry it out completely with warm air before the filter goes back on the vehicle.
Done in two minutes
See in two minutes whether this product fits your work
Five questions about how you clean today. You get the dilution and the pack size that fit your situation straight away, and you can order directly.
Product
Question 1
0%
How many litres of cleaning product do you buy per year?
What would you like to do?
What kind of business do you run?
What packaging do you use for your cleaning products?
Our packaging is not normally green.
What do you look at first when you buy?
We are matching your answers against our dosing table...
Final step
Where should we send it?
Leave your details and we will prepare it for your situation.
Request received
You will get a confirmation by email. Our adviser reviews your answers and gets in touch to work out the details.
Thank you for your interest
Unfortunately we sell industrial cleaning agents to companies that purchase from 100 litres per year. If your usage grows, we would like to hear from you at info@cleanline.nl.
Reference
Technical data
The full technical data sheet and the safety data sheet go out with the sample.
- Product form
- Liquid concentrate, water-based
- Colour
- Fluorescent yellow
- Character
- Alkaline
- Dilution
- 1:10 to 1:5Heavier fouling: leave it in longer instead of dosing higher.
- Working temperature
- 60 to 70 °CWorks cold as well, just slower.
- Soak time
- 30 to 60 minutes
- Suitable for
- Ceramic and metal filter elements, catalytic converters, SCR units and parts with soot deposits
- Pack sizes
- 1, 5, 10, 20, 200 and 1000 litres
- Private label
- Available from a fixed annual volume
Working safely
- Alkaline product: wear gloves and eye protection.
- Do not leave it undiluted on aluminium or painted parts.
- Store between 5 and 30 °C, away from frost and direct sunlight.
Jerrycan
1 to 20 litres
Drum
200 litres
IBC
1000 litres
Frequently asked questions
You can flush it through the sensor port, and that gets the loose soot out. It does not fully reach the ash that packs the channels. For filters that come back after a few weeks, taking the filter off and cleaning it in a bath is the only approach that actually solves the problem.
Not at the recommended dilution and soak time. The element handles the temperatures and the chemistry that act on it in the bath. What you have to avoid is using it undiluted, and contact with aluminium or painted parts.
That depends on the size of your bath and how often you reuse the liquid. In a typical setup, count on a few litres of concentrate per filter. We work it out for your bath when we send the sample.
Yes. The same method works on catalytic converters and on SCR units with urea deposits. The soak time differs per type of fouling.
The name DPF Cleaner comes from the biggest application, but at heart it is a soot cleaner. Anything with soot and baked-on combustion residue on it that you can submerge, you can clean with it: exhaust sections, turbo parts, grilles and housings. If you are not sure whether your part is suitable, put it to our adviser.
Yes. We produce in the Netherlands and ship across Europe, from a single jerrycan to full IBC pallets. Tell us your country and volume and we will send the delivery terms with the quotation.
From a fixed annual volume we produce under your own brand, label and safety data sheet included, in your name. That runs through our private label request.
The price depends on your annual volume and the pack size. Request the sample, and based on your answers we send a price indication for your volume with it.
This product under your own brand
Pick a container, upload your logo and see your own label on the packaging. This product is filled in for you.
Order direct from the manufacturer
Choose the pack size that fits your work, pay by iDEAL, card or bank transfer and the invoice lands in your inbox straight away. Prefer to talk first? Request a quotation.
DPF Cleaner
Order direct from the manufacturer